Description of Boroondara
ENTERING Boroondara by the bridge at the termination of the Richmond road, we exchange the dull, swampy, and treeless flat for the charming and wooded heights of Hawthorne.
The present wooden bridge is only six years old, and as long ago as three years it assumed the decrepitude of age, and had to be tied, repaired, and secured. The Yarra will soon receive a nobler span in its place. Already four large stone abutments, of admirable workmanship, arc standing on either side, like strong Dan of old, prepared to sustain: their burden. How different a scene was presented in that primitive era when an occasional bullock-dray came thundering down that craggy steep, and the driver shouted "Punt," ahoy!
Our worthy speaker, Sir Frederick James Palmer, the aforetime Dr. Palmer, has the honor of first constructing a punt for the convenience of Boroondara settlers. This was in 1840. The machine was entrusted to the trustworthy care of Mr. Trainor, now of the White Horse, Nunawading. An old settler told us he used to dislike paying 4s. 6d. for the passage of his dray. But even that was poor return for the man who waited half a day for it with an idle rope. Once over the stream, the unhappy Whip had to plunge through that fearful passage of horrors, lying between the Punt and Richmond Hill. They who bowl along so merrily into town upon that fine road now have little «6» conception of its rutted condition formerly. After a few years the punt was purchased by Mr. McIntyre for £300. It was private property only, and the proprietor simply paid to Government an annual rental of £10, in the form of a Squatting License. How would the old puntman stare to be told that the turnpike by the bridge was taken last year at £6000! Tolls have increased indeed since his day.
But we have tarried long enough at the river. Fronting us, upon the gravel hill, stand the picturesque Hawthorne Church, the Parsonage of the much esteemed clergyman, the Rev. W. Wood, and the educational ornament of the district, the well conducted National School. The roads here branch off; that to the left toward Kew, Bulleen, and Anderson’s Creek; that to the right, through Hawthorne to Camberwell, Nunawading, Dandenong, &c.
We take the latter path. The Speaker’s really noble Old English mansion, with its extensive grounds, will be the first object of attention. They who recognize the past labours and the public services of the titled occupant, must surely delight in the success of honourable industry, and sympathize with Her Majesty’s act of grace, in conferring the honour of Knighthood upon the man whom, above others, Boroondara should delight to honour.
The Government township of Hawthorne is but of few acres in extent; most of the houses of the so-called Hawthorne being upon private land cut up into allotments. Leaving examination of public buildings and institutions until another opportunity, let us stroll onward. What charming little rural homes are dotted about! "Love in a cottage!" Aye, there’s love in many a cottage thereabouts. Else, why is that creeper trained so carefully, and that garden walk maintained so clear of weeds? Behind the one, two bright, laughing faces may be caught in view; and oft along the other, in the summer eve, may the entwined pair be seen, entwined in heart and linked in arm. «7»
It is idle to particularize amidst such a crowd of beauties, else we might speak of the villas of Messrs. Power, Walsh, Mason, Orr, &c. A German settlement rises above the Sir Robert Nicol. What a funny looking body that is in the field there, using the hoe so vigorously? Why, it is the good old man’s Frau, anxious to do her part in the garden by which they make their bread. Did she not do the same for him some thirty years ago in the German Fatherland? While plucking her grapes at Hawthorne, do her thoughts never travel Rhineward? Does the heart, which never grows old, still love to dwell upon the courting days among the vines and linden trees of the Land of Song?
Walking round to the southward, and catching many a varied glance of nature, we look across to the high bank of Prahran, and the embowered embattlements of Toorak. The junction of Gardiner’s Creek with the Yarra was the paradise of wild fowl, until ruthless destroyers drove the remnant to other and more peaceful retreats. Mr. John Gardiner, after whom the creek is named, was the first settler on that side of the Yarra, as he was the first overlander with stock from Sydney, being in company with Mr. Hawdon. Punch made a little merry sketch about our Boroondara crossing into Prahran over—a bridge? a ford? a something between, a creature partaking of the qualities of both. The bridge (?) was represented by our witty friend as the tops of four posts in the midst of rushing water. On two occasions we ourselves rode down to cross the bridge, and found it buried out-of sight beneath the stream.
A remarkable ruin is in its neighbourhood, one of the very few of which this district can boast. Dream not of the marble fountain of the Alhambra, the Sphinx avenue of Thebes, the winged bull chambers of Nineveh, the grotesque halls of Yucatan, the airy colonnade of Palmyra, ,the—the anything that stirs up the antique blood of an archaeologist«sic». It is only the shell of a Boiling Down Establishment. In the name of sweet Arcadia, and the «8» Vale of Tempe, let us protest against the vulgar, murderous act of first cutting off the legs of bleating innocents, and then casting their bodies into the boiling cauldron, converting the tended pet of some fair Phyllis of the South into—tallow candles!
The romance of the thing is simply this. Fifteen or sixteen years ago, in one of the many monetary catastrophes to which these colonies are epidemically subjected, sheep fell down in price to nowhere. In 1843 Mr. O’Brien, a Yass settler, hit upon the expedient of boiling down animals, cattle and sheep, to procure tallow for England. It was a happy thought. Stations soon rose in value, until mutton became of more consequence than tallow, when the Melting Downs went out of use, and shared the fate of many an outgrown invention. The following specimen of historic verse, from the brain of some ancient Port Phillip Troubadour, may not be uninteresting to those invaders of soil—the New Chum tribe.
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THE BOILING DOWN. At Melbourne some few months ago, When stock was selling very low, Our Settlers hurried to and fro, And looked and talked despairingly; But Melbourne showed another sight, When through the thickest gloom of night Forth burst a voice "All will be right, Build Melting Down Establishments." Then all at once on Yarra’s banks Vast numbers rush’d with beams and planks, And cauldrons, boilers, tubs and tanks Were piled on heaps promiscuously. And now on Yarra’s banks a scene Of fearful carnage may be seen, And bloodier work than o’er has been At Linden, Prague or Waterloo. Prostrate beneath those awful sheds Ten thousand lie on gory beds, Hide, butchers, your diminished heads, In blaze of our Establishments. JUVENIS, P. P., April, 1844. |
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In Upper Hawthorne stands the estate of Gavan Duffy, Esq., M.L.A., the love gift of his Victorian admirers, and his Qualification Clause to a seat in Parliament when looking down upon the Red Gum Flat, its huts, gardens, and brickfields, how little must the Irish Patriot be reminded of Tara’s halls. The emerald green we have in pasture and foliage; but he must miss the rags, the wan faces, the oppressed peasantry, and the bogs of Ireland. He would be rather bothered for a grievance here, where he espies some old sixpenny a day labourer become the owner of many acres, and dropping a cheque of fifty pounds for his own qualification and the honour of Ould Ireland.
Several private townships are scattered throughout eastern Boroondara, as Camberwell, at the junction of, the two great roads. The soil is made productive by the aid of town manure; but prices now are not like those golden ones, when the many were at the cradle, and hay in Melbourne rose to £50 a ton. The W. creek drains most of that part to the eastward and southward. The country generally is deficient in scenic beauty compared to that in the neighbourhood of Kew and Hawthorne.
The Survey, as it is called (of which more hereafter) occupies 5,000 acres of that end of the parish. The fine hill, belonging to the Hon. John O’Shanassy, M.L.A., looks down upon it, while it is bordered also by the section of the present Dean of Melbourne, the Rev. Dr. Macartney. To the south of the Survey is the land of one of the Boroondara Fathers, and a neighbourly settler, Mr. Delaney. The residence of our member, Patrick O’Brien, Esq., is more to the westward. His colleague, Mr. Ricardo, is found in the adjoining parish of Bulleen.
Resuming our position by the bridge, we turn to the left and enter Red Lion lane, on the way to Kew. The Red Lion is a formidable looking beast on the signboard; and has, we fear played sad havoc among the «10» simple ones, who confidingly toyed with the relentless monster. It is even thought that he attempted to devour his old keeper. The house was erected by an honest man, who by sobriety in service accumulated money, and whose luck at the diggings enabled him to pile up the bricks. Opposite was the residence of the late George Annand, Esq., M.L.C., a wealthy and yet a benevolent man. Nearer the river is the proud mansion of — Creswick, Esq., the son-in-law of the Mayor of Geelong, and one of the most active and intelligent citizens of Melbourne. Our good tempered Boroondara lawyer, Mr. Atkyns, is one of his neighbours.
Leaving to our left, overlooking the river, the garden of Mr. McIntyre, another original of the district, and to our right the grounds of Mr. Brooks, we approach the cross road, at the corner of which is Colvin’s Bee-Hive, where bees, attracted by the sweets, may revel in sensual pleasures, but sometimes neglect to carry enough food to their offspring in the cells at home. One end of the cross road terminates abruptly at the Yarra, at the place where a bridge must be some day, and the other end runs into the Dandenong Ranges. Sir J. F. Palmer erected a magnificent mansion, for this part of the world, over against the Bee-Hive. It was subsequently sold to G.S. Henty, Esq. M.L.C., one of the founders of Portland, and, with his brothers, the first settler in Port Pl1illip. Passing this, and the valuable section of Mr. Bakewell, we are confronted with a large wooden building, which is a store and butchery, conducted by a thorough energetic and honourable American. It was formerly an hotel, the "Woodman," where wood carters were wont to stop to contemplate an ancient Forester over the door. Right opposite is the substantial brick "Kew Hotel,' boasting of the only public room, or assembly room, for the pleasure hunters or politicians of the village.
Kew is unquestionably the prettiest place out of the dust of Melbourne. Its elevation is considerable, «11» commanding a view of the vessels in the bay, and affording a noble sweep of vision over the Plenty and Dandenong Ranges. North-easterly the land suddenly falls, and presents a lap of beauty, and so exposes more easily to view the distant and almost unequalled panorama. North-west the prospect is, if possible, even finer. Old Macedon comes into sight; cultivation in all luxuriance lies before one, and the busy haunts of men are beheld across the river. Kew property is rising rapidly in value. Land 3 or 4 years since worth but £3 or £4 an acre cannot be bought for less than £300 or £400. Rural retreats are springing up on all sides. These are not like the St. Kilda residences, four walls; with half-a-dozen yards of sand to the road-fence, but are sheltered in the midst of cultivated grounds. His Honor the Chief Justice has just laid out a charming garden at Kew.
Kew Proper consists of a section of 122 acres, cut up into half acre lots by N. A. Fenwick, Esq., who purchased in 1851. Our first impressions of the locality were gathered in an attempt to find a block of land upon which we were to erect our tented home. The forest was dense, and the Wattle underwood so thick as to be quite obstructive to the rays of the sun. As far as prospect was concerned, we might as well have been in a jungle. The drayman was naturally anxious to know the whereabouts of settlement, as the "shades of eve were falling fast." A light in the bush disclosed to us the interesting fact that there was a hermit in the solitude. Thence gathering fresh compass power, we tracked on to a pretty grassy knoll, beautifully dotted with lively Wattles, and more heavily timbered with broad spreading Peppermints.
Hoisting our canvas, a repast was taken, and the children were stowed away in their novel chamber for the night. No accident occurred beneath the starry gaze, excepting that an unmannerly bullock brushed against a tent line, nearly overwhelming us in a falling dwelling, and awakening terrors of attacking bushrangers. The Opossums screamed to their own delight, «12» and one dropped down upon our house, as if to resent the intrusion of man into his tranquil retreat. Night birds added to the diversion by their melancholy moans. The Laughing Jackass awoke us early with his merry note. The world was up, and we rose from our slumbers refreshed indeed by the soft airs and sweet odours of charming Boroondara.
The village of Kew is a favourite resort for Melbourne merchants, and Government employees. It can boast, also, of an aristocracy as well as St. Kilda, having the seats of His Honor the Chief Justice and others of colonial standing. It is well supplied with stores, and the usual tradesmen of a township. Mr. French was the first storekeeper of Kew, opening his repository of groceries, &c., somewhere in August, 1853. His shop is now kept by Mr. Kirwood. Opposite is the Kew Post-Office, a store of Messrs. Kellett and Co., at the corner of Cotham Road.
Cotham Road, so called after a village near Clifton, by some western neighbours, is now virtually considered part of Kew, though not of the original Kew section. In that eastern direction are the residences of Mr. Bayne, solicitor; Mr. Charlwood, bookseller; Mr. Lewis, chemist; and Messrs. Judd, Bonwick, Sinclair, Bell, Shaw, Denbigh and Ritchie. Holt’s garden is at the top of Cotham Road, by the Survey. The forty acre Reserve is over the hill, on the north side of Cotham road. The "Harp of Erin," on the Bulleen road, is beyond the beautifully situated section of Dr. Motherwell’s. On the Yarra side of that road is the model farm wrought by Mr. Wade, one of the most judicious and experienced of farmers, as he is one of the most upright of men. Land upon the Cotham road, purchased by C. Vaughan, Esq., at £3 an acre, has, in subdivisions, been sold by him as high as £150 in three years time.
The original Kew section, 87, or 122 acres was purchased by N. A. Fenwick, Esq., for £4 6s. an acre. It was advertised for sale in the beginning of 1853. A road branches off from the southern corner of the village, «13» and leads on to the Yarra. Over the river there are four means of passage. There is first the original Hodgson’s Punt; then the Boat Ferry into the Upper Simpson’s road, up an almost perpendicular bank; then the Studley Park Bridge; and, lastly, the new Government Bridge at the end of Johnston street. In our way thither we pass the Italian villa of Mr. Stevenson, the charming garden of Mr. Gregory, the well ordered grounds of Mr. Carson, the ornamental cottage of Mr. Wrede, the spacious residence of Sir Wm. F. Stawell, and the estate of the Hon. John Hodgson, M.L.C.
The STUDLEY PARK BRIDGE is a great convenience to the Northern Boroondara residents, saving them a mile into town. It runs into Simpson’s road at Church street, which is continued from Prahran by Richmond Church. It originated in a private company, consisting of Messrs. Murphy, Carson, &c., and owes much to the energy of the secretary, Dr. Clarke. There are 10,000 shares of £1 each. All the money was not called for, as the expenditure was not £9,000. The length of the bridge from bank to bank is 485 feet, but the span over the Yarra is but 125 feet. The abutments are wooden, resting on a platform, upon piles. There are three abutments on the southern side, and seven on the northern. The latter side requires more support, from its sloping, earthy character, than that of the perpendicular basaltic wall of the southern bank. There arc three arches above resting on the two first abutments; these are on the American principle. The abutments are of hard wood; the other parts are of pine. The engineer was Mr. Austin, and the contractor was Mr. Grant, who throw the bridge over the Niagara. The bridge was opened on 6th June, 1857.
The NEW BRIDGE, erected by Government over an upper bend of the river, at the end of Johnstone street, Collingwood, is more substantial and imposing. The stone abutments are splendid specimens of masonry, and «14» are of great strength, as they have to bear the weight and lateral pressure of the whole structure. The span is 55 feet more than that of Studley, being 180 feet, the noblest in the colony. There is an arched bar of sixteen thicknesses of American deals, with a half inch layer between of white lead and sand, and the whole is trundled together with iron rods to give it thorough solidity and stedfastness. The planks used are of 18, 20 and 22 feet lengths. The mere bridge itself has cost about £30,000, and the approaches, before being completely finished, will cost nearly £20,000 more. The Boroondara side is so lofty, that a long and curved cutting had to be made through the hill, adding much to the picturesque effect of the scene.
The PARK RESERVE of Boroondara, is situated rather to the north-west of the district, and is separated from Collingwood East by the waters of the Yarra. It contains nearly 150 acres. Fears of invasion of Government Surveyors were lately entertained. The Acting Governor, General Macarthur, pledged himself that no interference should be suffered with this most delightful suburban retreat. Upon a renewal of alarm about sales, the Government intimated last August that they had no intention to deprive the public of the full enjoyment thereof. This reserve extends eastward from Mr. Hodgson’s land to the Punt, and southward from above the falls to the Ferry of Upper Simpson’s road.
What charming little dells are scattered about it! How comfortably the wattles shade where the straggling and nude branched Gums fail to screen from the summer’s sun! How fantastically the rocks figure round about! How all the soft and genial emotions of humanity rise within one, and do homage to the spirit of rural peace and beauty! And how, too, in suitable society, we do enjoy a ramble along its tortuous paths, or a lounge on its grassy, flowery banks, within sound of rippling waters, whose musical cadence blends with the choral songs of birds, and the sweeter notes of «15» human sympathy. Many a time have we there caught sight of a pair of absent-minded ones, smiling in each other’s faces, without a word to say. Hurrah for the Park Reserve!
Occasionally, through the density of foliage, one gets some pretty peeps at the Jika Jika territory. The Yarra Bend is nestled in woods, and looks like a sleeping scene of beauty, rather than the dwelling-place of raving men. The Falls was formerly a favorite place of Native Corrobory. Friendly tribes assembled at the full moon, and shook their limbs in unison to the tumtum of swarthy charmers. The Darkies’ ancestors, now jumped up into Whitefellows, are great admirers of the spot for their corrobories. The contents of civilized hampers may be witnessed scattered over the soft sward, while gay-hearted youth are footing it merrily o’er the green, and tinier ones are dabbling into the stream that laves the joyous shore.
Mile after mile of almost interminable beauty lead one round by the winding Yarra. Now and then, in a secluded nook, is seated some patient being engaged in angling; which mystery, according to Dean Swift, consists of "a stick and a string, with a worm at one end and a fool at the other." The New Bridge opens to view, at the end of Johnstone street. Few sketches would surpass in natural attractions that taken from the Reserve hill, commanding a prospect of this bridge at the end of a most delightful turn of the river, with the grim head of Old Macedon in the distance, as if the Past were contemplating the Present. Boroondara is indeed fair in the rudeness of nature, but is fairer still in the culture of her charms.
Arriving at the Punt, we gaze upon mimic battlements, shaded by some noble willows. Passing thence round by Studley Park Bridge, we enter upon one of the very gems of Boroondara,—a lovely walk by the Yarra, opposite the celebrated 'Walk of Willows. These most admired trees border the garden of the lately deceased eldest daughter of John Batman, the founder of the «16» Port Phillip Settlement. Well shall we ever remember the stroll we had with that lady beneath that famous arch of foliage, listening to stories of the past, of her own Ben Lomond home, of her father’s treaty with the Blacks, and of that father’s last hours of suffering in Melbourne eighteen years ago.
Let us not be thought too indulgent in praise of our Boroondara, the "shady land" of the Natives. We have long loved it. We are the first to publish its glories; and we are now obliged to quit its peaceful shades. We cannot but regard it as the most salubrious, agreeable, and beautiful spot for a home. Within half an hour’s reach of dusty Melbourne, it is supplied with the conveniences of civilized life, and amply provided, with educational and moral appliances. All hail to Boroondara!
"There is a quiet Spirit in these woods. * * * * Its presence shall uplift thy thoughts from earth,— As to the sunshine and the pure bright air Their tops the green trees lift. Hence gifted bards Have ever loved the calm and quiet shades." |
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